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Ways and means of simplifying your electrical system.
Complete with wiring diagrams.
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Chevy Ignition Wiring; Complements of member
Tory
Schutte: You'll need one toggle and one pushbutton switch.
Take a hot wire directly from your battery and connect that to one
side of the toggle then jumper it to your pushbutton. From the
switched side of the toggle run that wire to you distributor(back left
post) and from the pushbutton run that to your starter("S" terminal).
Run your ground cable from your battery straight to the back of the
engine(clean the ground point first)and the positive cable to the
starter. Run most of your wires through the hole from the heater core
to keep them from being pinched or burned by the engine. You can line
them with rubber hose or wrap them with duct tape to help protect
them. |
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Chevy Alternator Wiring; Complements of member
Tony Hartin: The diagram
shows how to wire a Delco (GM) alternator. Note that this applies to
the older 3 wire Delco alternators, not the newer (~1985+) Delcotron
electronic alternators.
- This is the main power wire that goes directly to the battery.
Make sure it is a heavy gauge since it has to carry the full output
of the alternator (up to 100 amps).
- This is the field wire that energizes the alternator. It must be
switched, or else it will drain the battery overnight. Do not wire
this into the coil power wire that you use to switch the engine on
and off (a seemingly elegant solution), since once the engine is
running, the alternator will power the coil, and your ignition
switch will no longer kill the engine.
- This is the lead for the sensing wire that goes to the idiot
light in your instrument panel. A neat tip: if you aren't using a
voltmeter or oil pressure gauge, run this wire to a light mounted
somewhere on your dash. Often you can't hear your own engine running
in the derby, so when this light lights up you know that your engine
has just quit (or the alternator has just stopped charging for some
reason).
- This is the regulator bypass hole. Sticking a long thin metal
object about 2 inches deep into this D-shaped hole causes the
alternator to go to full charge. If you do this while it's dark out
and the main power wire is disconnected, the whole alternator will
emit a cool X-Files type glow. I don't recommend that you try this
since you'll likely end up frying your alternator.
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Ford Starter Wiring Hear's the easiest way to
rewire a Ford's starting system. Relocate the solenoid in the driver's
compartment when you do this. Not all solenoids have two front posts
for smaller wires. If yours does.. usually the post with a single wire
on it is the one you need to connect to your button.. If you can't
tell, pull the wire off and have a friend turn the key to start (w/ a
battery in the car). The wire will go hot (show a 12 volt charge) when
trying to start the car. You might think that wiring a big negative
batt cable under the solenoid mount is overkill -- BUT if for ANY
reason your real ground (the one to the starter) doesn't connect, the
starter will ground though the wires you use to ground the solenoid,
and if their not thick, you'll have a fire! You really must ground the
solenoid (other then a body ground), it's needs it. Fords are really
BAD when it comes to grounds.. If you don't have a good one, NOTHING
will work right (trust me!). |
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Ford Starter Wiring I've had SEVERAL Ford
solenoids take a crap on me, so I suggest buying a NEW one, and
running a backup. I've never had a chance to do it yet, but here's how
I plan to on my next Ford. I might add in a A/B switch so both
solenoids don't kick when I press the button.. |
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Ford Starter Wiring Or I might just ditch the
solenoid all together and make the connection by hand. I've seen large
switches for high amp applications (they make a BIG battery on-off
switch for boats).. This is how I would wire that in.. this could be a
dangerous setup == leave it in the -on- position after the motor fires
and GOD knows what would happen! |
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Chrysler Ignition Wiring; Complements of member
Frank Ekstam: This diagram should work on any carbureted Mopar
(4 cylinder engines possibly excluded). Parts needed to convert are:
an electronic distributor with vacuum advance (pre-'76), a 4-prong
electronic control unit and the proper connectors. Note: In case you
don't know, the circle with a slash inside it is the symbol for a
switch. |
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