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Screwing your drive tires to their rims will
stop the rim from spinning inside a flat tire. This trick will help you
keep your traction w/ flat drive tires!
For better detail, click on the pictures for larger versions.
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I like to screw my tires in 5 places PER side (total
of 10 per tire). I use 3/4" long #12 sheet metal screws (which require
a 3/16 drill bit).. If you can find larger screws -- USE THEM! I also
suggest getting hex head screws, it'll make your life allot easier!
Don't use 'self tapping' screws, the tapper on the tip of the screw
screws up the tire and it will NEVER hold air and the screw probably
won't hold in the rubber (the most IMPORTANT place it's gotta hold). I
don't suggest going any shorter then 3/4" long screws.. |
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Here's where to drill the holes. You're basically
trying to drill the hole RIGHT over where the tire's bead is sitting.
ONLY drill through the rim, DO NOT go into the tire (this takes
practice!). I also have a simple system to keep my screws spaced
evenly, and staggered. On the front of the rim, drill your holes over
the 5 lug holes -- this will keep them evenly spaced. On the rear
side, drill the holes *in between* the 5 lug holes -- this will keep
them even and staggered from the other side! |
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Run the screw in with your drill, but not all the
way.. Leave it out a tinny bit. |
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Finish the screw by hand -- if you use the drill, and
over tighten, you'll rip up the tire and the screw won't hold! |
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Here's a completed tire. Extra info: (1) Post
inspection of a tire that went flat during a race shows that the
screws stay planted inside the tire and to the rim.. The only problem
is that they eventually shear in half. So if you can find BIG screws,
use'm. (2) Once you get a flat, TAKE IT EASY.. These screws can only
do SO much! and (3) about 80% of screwed tires go flat. Some take
days, some take hours. If your tires go flat too fast, spit on each
screw.. If it bubbles, take a screwdriver and tighten OR LOOSEN the
screw till the bubbles go away. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! Last resort,
fix-a-flat. |
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Gunther Junker pointed out another great idea:
"for one side of the rim, you can also use bolts. For this side, you
do want to drill a small hole all the way through the bead. Then just
reach into the tire after getting the bolts through (1/4 inch bolts or
whatever the equivalent metric is, I think 3/16 bolts would also work)
and put a washer and a lock nut on the ends of the bolts that are
sticking through the bead of the tire. Don't over tighten. The
pressure of the washer will help seal the bolt from leaking air.
Then air up the tire and, if you want, use screws as you suggest for
the other side of the rim.
For both sides, slather the nuts and bolts or screws with tire cement.
All of this should minimize the leaks and help keep the tire on the
rim." |
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